Saturday, July 07, 2012

Everest Base Camp Trek - Cost components

Everest Peak
While planning for Everest Base Camp (EBC), the biggest question that comes up is - 'What is included as a part of the trekking cost that you pay the organiser'. 
Ideally, you should ask the organiser to spell out what is included and what is not. The list below is a guide for the same (may not be a complete one) - check with the organiser on each one of these.







  1. Airport pickup and drop off at Kathmandu airport and transportation to & from the local hotel (Arrival from your home / departure to Lukla, arrival from Lukla and departure back home)
  2. Hotel stay at Kathmandu.
  3. Breakfast while at Kathmandu.
  4. Local sightseeing, in and around Kathmandu.
  5. Airport taxes at Kathmandu and Lukla.
  6. Food expenses (3 times a day) starting from Lukla.
    1. Open menu or restricted items.
    2. Hot drinks (coffee, tea, milk etc).
    3. If restricted items, menu for food.
  7. Porter charges for carrying your luggage.
  8. Complete day to day itinerary with route and stay information.
  9. Rest day plan / itinerary.
  10. First aid kit.
  11. Facility for emergency medical evacuation.
  12. English speaking guide (or your preferred language) and guide charges
  13. Trekking gear rental - Down jacket, Rain jacket, gloves, trekking poles.
  14. Sleeping bags rental (needed mostly at the higher camps only).
  15. Type of tea houses.
  16. Shared or individual accommodation at tea houses.
  17. Tips that should be paid to porters / guide at the end of the trek.
  18. Kathmandu to Lukla is a 1.5 hour journey in a 10 - 20 seater flight, going through the mountains. Since is weather is unpredictable, at times flights get cancelled and this delays the trek. Check with the organiser on additional costs if the trek is delayed due to weather or challenges.
My trek was completed in 11 days which was a very cramped schedule. A handful of trekkers fell sick on the way and they did not have enough days in the schedule to recover and join us later / continue the trek. All of them were left behind and were picked up on our way back.

Listening to the experience of other trekkers we met on the way, the Himalayan Rescue Association doctors, guides and locals we came to the conclusion that EBC should be long enough to accommodate any delays due to tiredness, medical condition that is not serious and one can quickly recover from. 12 - 14 days schedule is highly recommended with appropriate rest days during the ascent.

In the next entry, I will talk about the trek, route and my experience with photos :)

Monday, April 09, 2012

Planning for Everest Base Camp Trek

From the limited trekking experience I have had in the last few years, Everest Base Camp (EBC) has been one of the most grueling and best treks I have done till now. Planning for this trek started almost 2 years back when I came across the details for this trek on a website of a trekking organisation. The Everest word intrigued me and started reading more about others experience and details regarding the trek. I checked with a few trekkers I knew and no one was ready to take up because of this difficulty level and cost. Cost of this trek was (and is) very high (1000$ - 1300$). Hence I kept postponing the decision to take up this trek. 
Everest Peak

Late 2011, I started seriously looking at completing EBC trek and again started looking around for organisations arranging this trek. This time, a friend of mine (Preeti) also joined in the search. We came across three organisations that fit into our cost requirements. Only two of them fit into our timeline - i.e. completing the trek in the early half of 2012. Talked to both the organisers and spent sometime enquiring about them, their experience in organising such treks and the planning they have done till now. While both of them shared similar experience and background, one of them was half the cost of the other. It was a very difficult decision because both organisers gave different views on why their cost was low or high. Eventually, we settled down with the lower cost organiser because they had a confirmed departure / schedule. The other organiser, eventually, cancelled their trek due to lack of participation.

In hindsight, would have preferred an organisation that charged more, but provided better quality of service. Expenses during the trek increased due to improper planning and extreme cost cutting measures adopted by the organiser.  The organising team lacked the professional attitude and temperament that is needed in such strenuous treks. So it is important to shortlist the right trek organiser - search on internet, check with people whom you know and have used the organiser etc. (If you need details on the cost etc, please send me an email).

For an amateur trekker, EBC is like an expedition. It is important to plan for this trek very early (6 months or   before) and start physical / fitness training 3 months before. Even though the trek route is commercialised (to the extent that at times one doesn't get a feeling of being in mountains), its not advisable to postpone buying things during the trek. Many travellers / websites may give you a view about buying things on the way, but keep in mind that the cost increases as you move up. Packaged water bottle that costs 20 NPR (Nepali Rupees) at Kathmandu will go up to 350 NPR at the last camp (Gorakhshep) - you can negotiate and bring it down, depends on the energy left in you to negotiate. The cost escalation is justifiable to a larger extent since essentials are either flew in by helicopters and carried by porters / Yaks. Unless you have missed something in your packing or exhausted your rations early (like we did :) ), its advisable not to buy anything on the way up.

I confirmed my trek participation in early January (2012) and from then on clock started ticking for fitness preparation. I spent 40 mins on a cross trainer and 30 minutes on weights every day, which helped during the trek. Keep in mind, unless you have done high altitude treks, nothing can prepare you for the height - essentially loss of oxygen as you go up and altitude related illness. Proper planning, understanding the challenges one may encounter and knowledge about your own body will help you overcome any difficulties during high altitude treks.

Coming back to the planning part, essential stuff that I carried and were of use:-
(This lists below may not be complete or cover all essentials, its just a guidance.)
Trek wear (Quantity depends on your comfort and weight you can carry):
  1. Thermals (top and bottom) - Look for performance thermals ( moisture wicking and odor-free) that can be worn days together. Helps in reducing the weight one has to carry.
  2. Down jacket or thermally insulated jacket. If you have a used one and can withstand the temperature, carry them. Avoids any anxiety during the trek.
  3. Normal or rain proof trekking trousers is enough, over the thermals for bottom layer.
  4. Rain jacket, preferably a long coat type (knee or calf length) for better air circulation.
  5. Water proof trekking shoes (preferably ones you have already used in treks).
  6. Woolen socks for higher camps and normal socks otherwise. Its wise to wear a normal sock as an inner layer for woolen socks.
  7. Woolen gloves for higher camps and water proof gloves for wet weather.
  8. Hat to protect from Sun.
  9. Woolen cap for higher camps (or a Balaclava)
  10. Bandana for covering face, absolutely must if you want to avoid tanning on your face.
  11. Extra fleece jacket (or thermal) for added protection.
  12. Sunglasses (no blue colour in higher altitudes / snow).
  13. Sandals for use inside tea houses.
In addition to the above, carry a couple of full sleeve t-shirts. Other clothes and quantity needed will be a personal choice.

Medical stuff:
  1. Must to carry a trekking insurance. For Indians, very few providers offer insurance. I went through Ihi Bupa and my friend through Wold Nomads.
  2. Medicines depending on your physician advice. I carried medicines for food poisoning (suffered from this almost throughout the trek), nasal decongestant, cough medicines, pain killer, fever / headache and Diamox. Amongst the medicines, Diamox is certainly a life saver, helps avoid Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). I took two tablets a day from the first day of the trek. Read about AMS thoroughly and consult your physician at the planning stages itself to understand it better.
  3. First aid kit consisting of pain reliever (spray), band aid, alcohol pads for sterilisation and cotton rolls.
  4. Carry crepe bandage(s) if you have a history of joint pain during trekking or to help with sprain.
  5. Lip balm, cold creams and other cosmetics of your choice.
  6. Wet tissues.
Most of the trek route is littered with Yak dung and when it rains this makes the routes difficult to walk. Also, during peak season, the trek route is very crowded as was our case. Always cover your nose with a mask or bandana to avoid picking up any respiratory infection.

Food
Chocolates and dry fruits will help retain energy. Glucose or Gatorade powder can be added to water for a refreshing drink on the way. Carry chlorine tablets or drops for water purification. Throughout the trek, there are nice and cosy tea houses which provide lodging facilities. Food should not be a concern as these tea houses serve good food.

Trekking gear and accessories
  1. A good backpack.  Have a good backpack even if you are planning to use a porter (recommended), 
  2. A small day pack if you are planning to walk around during rest days.
  3. Trekking pole - most trekkers use two poles, its a personal preference. Two poles give better stability.
  4. Water bottles, atleast 2 litres. I carried a hydration pouch (3 ltrs).
  5. Rain cover for backpack or camera bags.
  6. A small wait pouch (attached to the backpack waist strap or separate) to hold frequently accessed  items.
Photo, Video equipment is personal choice. Whatever you carry, make sure there is backup supply. Battery or mobile charging is available in most tea houses, chargeable on hourly basis.

Reference links I used before my trek: